26 October

Breakfast At Stewart’s

by Jon Katz

For years, I’ve wanted to photograph breakfast at Stewart’s, there is a sense of community, pathos, loneliness and connection there, a great stew all mixed into one small convenience store.

I am very fond of Stewart’s, a gas and convenience store chain that fills many of the holes in our rural America. We need them, the government and the economists have driven the young and the factories and companies away to the big cities or other countries.

They employ a lot of local people and feed a lot of local people.

If people want to know why Donald Trump is President, come and spend some time in the rural parts of the country. It will make sense to you.

Stewart’s is an important part of the rural community here, there are very few places to go.

The Big Men In Trucks gather here before work, single mothers on a hard budget bring their children here for breakfast, and older men, mostly retired, gather every morning to gossip and talk to one another.

The men have fun, laughing and kidding each other and the Stewart’s staff. Everyone knows one another of course, this is the fabric of community.

Before I started thinking more about what I was eating, I used to love buying Stewart’s famous peanut butter and butter sandwiches on a Kaiser Roll. Now, that would probably make me ill.

I can’t imagine eating it. But I do like their Tuna on wheat bread, their veggie snacks, and their chicken salad sandwiches.

Stewart’s has a wondrous feel for the community, I think their coffee is better than any restaurant I know, and they always have fresh bananas on hand. They offer a whole display of healthy food.

I stop almost every morning to get a cup of decaf coffee at the Cambridge Stewarts’s, Mary knows me and she is always cheerful and says hello. I always look over to the plastic booths to see the men laughing and kidding each other. Stewart’s welcomes people to come and sit, and it is much appreciated in our town.

There are no nasty looks or time limits. In a sense, Stewart’s is the new town green.

They sell a ton of multi-colored lottery tickets, they are too complex for me, and the people who buy them are full of hope that a ticket will transform their lives.

I think Stewart’s has its thumb right on the pulse of my little town. This morning, I stopped and looked up and saw this elderly gentlemen with a somewhat sorrowful face.

I went in and asked him if I could take his photo outside, and he said sure, and shrugged, I don’ t think he cared one way or another.

I like this photo very much, Stewart’s is always full of people, but it sometimes also conveys a sense of the loneliness and isolation that can bring people out of their homes, especially in rural America, where being alone has a completely different connotation.

A lot of people here bring their families to Stewart’s for dinner.

Stewart’s is proud of its best-selling Sausage eggwich (577 calories) and suggests several ways on its website to burn off its 577 calories.

After you eat a sandwich, they advice: swimming or treading water for 2.1 hours; running for 1.1 hours, bicycling for 1.1 hour, and walking for 2.5 hours on a level firm surface.

There are 248 mg of Cholesterol in an eggwich, 30 grams of total fat, and 36 grams of carbs. I would probably keel over and die if I ate two or three.

The Big Men In Trucks devour the Sausage Eggwiches, they are always running out of them.

I have nothing bad to say about Stewart’s, I am there every day.

People are responsible for themselves, they have the right to eat whatever they wish. I am not here to tell anybody else what to eat.

I twitch about the kids sometimes, but that is not Stewart’s fault. The food is fresh and affordable for people who sometimes can’t afford to go anywhere else. And there are plenty of healthy things to eat there these days if people are so inclined.

Many are not.

Rural poverty is sometimes invisible, but it can be grinding to see.

I asked one of the mothers if she did any of those things Stewart’s recommends to use up those calories, and she laughed. “I work at a Dunkin’ Donuts, she said, “I’m a single mother, I don’t have time to jog with three kids.”

It makes me sad when I see a mother with three children who are sharing an eggwich sandwich among one another for breakfast.

Is it my business? People are always buying additional  eggwich sandwiches in Stewart’s and bringing them to the mothers so the kids won’t be hungry all morning.

Stewarts  reflects us all here in many ways.

It is easy to judge, harder to accept.

5 Comments

  1. Thank YOU for the positive comments about Stewart’s. My son is a manager of a local Stewart’s here in Northern New York up along the St. Lawrence River. It’s a hard and fast moving job at most of these locations.

  2. No judgment from this child raised on Froot Loops and white wonder bread and something my mother called “hot dog stew.” I think that last thing was invented one night when there weren’t enough hot dogs to go around.

  3. You hit on all of the same thoughts that I’ve had in my Stewart’s experiences. Great blog post Jon. About the only one you missed is their great ice cream — still sold as a 1/2 gallon when most big name ice cream companies reduced their package size to 1.5 or 1.75 quarts. The Stewart’s business story is pretty amazing. There was a fascinating documentary on them on our local WMHT PBS station a few years ago. A few things I recall from that show: they source their milk from local farmers (as you know from the signs at the Gulley’s). Their “Stewart’s Match” program donates millions to local organizations all in support of youth-oriented causes. Our local library has received grant money from them to help with children’s programs. They are still privately owned and run their business extremely well. They have zero debt…everything they do is paid for with finances on-hand. Their local store managers “buy” a lot of the store inventory (like the candy) from the main store and then stock their shelves for re-sale. They keep that ‘old fashioned’ touch and are very good at their marketing– for example, every store has a thermometer posted by the entrance and every thermometer has a promo posted along with it. They use a distinctive font on all of their signage. For years, they advertised on TV with “Susan” as their spokesperson. Susan is the wife of one of the owners. They had a contest to name the cow (with the long eyelashes) that you see on some of their signs…the winning name was “Pasture Eyes”.
    Just wanted to add a few tidbits of memory that your excellent post stirred-up in me. Thanks Jon.

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